This Neosanding trick gives your prints – top layers an amazing matte finished look, using Neosanding 1.0 feature in Cura software creating, what we called, ‘sanding’ to make the most polishing and matte finished surface as ever. The technique has been developed by an Ultimaker user under the name “Neotko” and it was shared in Ultimaker community forum.
Understanding the idea of how this technique works is essential, as it leads to expected beautiful results. The key to make this technique reachable and remarkably done is to find your right setting of extrusion width with the nozzle size to trick the printing process – where the nozzle will have to hit the part of the print with only half of its tip that it will ‘sand’ or scratch the print instead of pushing all printing capacity in.
Not getting what I mean? Let’s then have a practice:
According to Neotko’s theory, the person set the extrusion width at 0.24 for his/her nozzle size of 0.4 mm. And, the reason the person set his/her setting at 0.24 is because the person wants the nozzle to travel to the print at the same area more – so he/she then set the speed to almost double of the real speed. However, by doing this, it definitely decreases the printing quality but since ‘sanding’ technique idea is to make the thinnest lines as possible, so the result would be nice for this case.
Importantly, please mind that this is the setting based on Neotko’s and his/her top layers are done at 50 mm/s.,
The 0.4 nozzle size with a setting of extrusion width at 0.24 is the lowest possible that Neotko have tried by far without having extrusion errors occurred. You can try to test the setting at 0.1 with a 0.4 nozzle size for more ‘sanding’ effect.
The picture shows the effects of different setting
(Neosanding 2.0 feature using GudoZGE – Ultimaker 2, 1.75 and 0.4 Olsson Ruby Nozzle)
Let’s now move on to the setting step by step.
Go to ‘Variable Settings Wizard’, then to process to split > select ‘Base 2 – neosanding2’, then try select following to the picture below. (Select in accordance to the last top of the print). Neotko used 4.0 split helper for this.
However, the numbers appear on the picture are not the files provided to download.
Now, you can split the process as many parts as top layers you wish to make them look beautiful. Then, group ‘neosanding2.0’ layers that need the effect together and adjust parameters
After everything has set, now it entirely depends on your print speed you adjust. Following the pictures above, Neotko adjusted the outlines to match her normal process she uses. To avoid losing quality on the outside, keep a very high speed for the last layer solid infill.
Then you are done!
There are of course some weak points of ‘Neosanding’ technique. Because this technique relies pretty much on the nozzle to sand your printed parts, then the gloss to matte finished effect will occur to change depending on the sizes of the foot prints. If the area of the foot print is big, then it will look matte more because there’s enough time for the filament to cool down – that’s why. And, if the foot print of the top layer is small, then the filament would not be cool enough to get sanded and this will keep a half-gloss-matte brightness.
To get more matte finished effect, try to slow the speed of 100 mm/s down to, for example, 75 mm/s. This should give you a more matte finished look, though it will take more time to print than just a non-neosanding2.0 layers.
You can download the file here (FFF files) to test print and check how you do.
Important: The starting/ ending Gcode used relies on Neotko’s machines, please be aware to firstly adjust or change the setting according to your machine otherwise it will definitely make the hotend crush with the bedclip. Also, with the filament size, settings of the normal process, and the rest are again, customized to Neotko’s UMO+ with 1.75 mm, Gudo ZGE Direct Drive, UM2 hotends 1.75 and custom fans, meaning, do not forget to readjust or change every single thing in the file.